A SECOND BITE OF THE CHERRY
In April and May this year, my wife and I took our second trip from Sydney which crossed the hemispheres from south to north and east to west crossing the globe cutting across the South Pacific all the way to the North Atlantic in London. Our first trip was made 19 years ago when we took our children except for the older son who was in University from Sydney to Beijing and then made an 'excursion' from Beijing to London to begin our 9 countries land tour of the UK, the Netherlands, Belgium, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Italy, the Vatican, France and back to London, Beijing and Sydney. Even in today's jet speed travel, it would have taken a whole day for the journey but we were wiser this time and traveled both ways with a break in Hong Kong to get rid of the jet lag.
Our experience this time was more rewarding too as we have become more seasoned travelers. We have covered cities more thoroughly and learned a lot about many nationalities and cultures than last time even though the walking tours were quite tiring with our advancing age but we have found that more things do get better in age as we have become more knowledgeable. Including Hong Kong and China, we have covered 11 countries this time, transversing Italy, Greece, Turkey, the Vatican, France, Spain, Gibraltar, Portugal and the UK. By the time we arrive Sydney we have spent just over 7 weeks so we weren't rushed around like we were almost two decades ago and had time to digest what we saw along the way.
HONG KONG
We spent two weeks in Hong Kong and made two full day trips to Shenzhen to tailor-make a ballroom gown for Magdalen and a set of ballroom tails for myself. We met up with a dancing friend who has now working in Guangzhou and spoke at length with her dancing teacher and partner to check out the dancing scenes in China. We found middle-class people in Shenzhen very similar to those in Hong Kong as they traveled regularly to Hong Kong to shop and tour although Hong Kong people would want to see less of their presence. For the first week in Hong Kong we lived in the notorious Chung King Mansion in Tsim Sha Tsui where we rubbed shoulders with thousands of Chinese tourists from all walks of life and actually dined in restaurants with many of them. As we were overseas Chinese from Australia we tended to be less threatened by their presence and we found that they behaved very similarly to other tourists from South-East Asia, South Asia, Africa and Western countries. 
FELLOW TRAVELERS
Our positive impressions of the Mainlander Chinese were confirmed in the Mediterranean both on cruise and on land. Of course, everything is about comparison and we had many races and nationalities to compare with the Mainlander Chinese: Hong Kong Chinese tourists, Americans including many Jewish Americans, Overseas Chinese from the US and Canada, Germans and French. All in all, the Mainlander Chinese actually compared more favourably than some of the people that I mentioned. We were pleased to relate that the Mainlander Chinese that we had met with and spoken to were a lot more educated and behaved appropriately in public than the ones that I saw in Canada last year. In contrast, we can't say the same for some of the Hong Kong tourists traveling with us in our land tour of Spain and Portugal. It confirmed the axiom that tourists are the same everywhere, some are greedy, overbearing and abrasive, whatever their race and origins.
VENICE
We left the Pacific in Hong Kong, flying to London in transit to Venice. This was our third visit to Venice, the first time was 19 years ago and the second time 18 months ago when we actually missed our flight and had to buy another ticket from Hong Kong to catch the Adriatic cruise. This time we arrived 3 days before the cruise and was able to see more of Venice including Murano which is an island famous for its glass making. On the second last day before we boarded the Norwegian Spirit, we actually saw it coming into Venice harbour. It was exciting to behold.
Just as well that we spent ample time on our own in Venice before we departed this beautiful and romantic city on April 29 because even when the cruise itinerary stated Venice as a port to call on April 30, the ship actually depart Venice after midnight on that date so it was very misleading, much like what it was written on our plane tickets 18 months ago when we missed the London flight from Hong Kong. 
ATHENS
We spent 2 days at sea before we arrive Piraeus, the port of Athens. Athens is a very modern city so it is entirely possible to get to the Acropolis on our own but we only had half a day in Athens and didn't want to miss this icon of Western civilisation so we joined an excursion from the ship which helped us avoid the long queue when we got there. I did Greek history at university so all the Greek legends made a lot of sense to me but I was too busy filming the ancient relics to get the full benefit from the guide's explanation. The tour included a drive along the coast and a brief run of the city so we saw what we could before the tour bus took us back on the cruise ship. We would have loved to feel for the culture more but there wasn't enough time.
IZMIR
Izmir was our next port of call. The Turkish city is famous for its Roman ruins at Ephesus but we saw most of it in the Internet so we decided to get a hop-on and hop-off ticket to see the Islamic city and get a bird's-eye view of how people lived. We were not disappointed when we went into the Grand Bazaar which was converted from a mosque of great antiquity. A variety of shops were housed in small cubicles with very low-arched roof. The shops offered a thousand things to sell but we were only interested in the way the restaurants and bakeries were preparing food. We were intrigued by the way they prepared the kebab with lamb and chicken. They sold juices and it was a sight to behold when they squeezed the Pomegranates for juice. Similarly there were many ice cream stalls and people seemed to enjoy the way they served their ice cream with a long steel rod.
FIRST GLIMPSE OF MUSLIM CULTURE
The ordinary citizens seemed to enjoy their short strong tea with two lumps of sugar as they sat down to rest from their shopping. The way they prepared bread was interesting as they kneaded the flour which gave its chewy texture. Not every restaurant sold their own bread as bread seemed to be delivered and there were mobile bread stalls selling different breads and the one that attracted our attention was bread rings sprinkled with sesame seeds. I later on got to eat a fish burger with bread and it turned out to be the best chewy bread that I had eaten. There were restaurants on the sidewalks selling cooked mussels and people ate them with bread. I was tempted to eat some but Magdalen didn't think it was hygienic enough for our stomachs. As we were riding the tourist bus, I saw people praying in the mosque and there were so many of them that they spilled over into the footpaths kneeling in one direction. They were all men as I later found out that Muslim women worshipped separately. We were glad that we didn't go to Ephesus to use up our limited time in Izmir as we had discovered that Izmir was a modern secular city, parts of which was comparable to Athens.
ISTANBUL
Istanbul was a highlight in the cruise itinerary. I remember the old name Constantinople in Roman history and the Ottoman Empire with the Sultans and their harems there. As Australian, I was aware that the Australians and New Zealanders fought in Turkey as part of the British contingents and were defeated by the Turks at Gallipoli. This defeat in battle marked the beginning of nationhood for Australia and New Zealand and today April 25 was celebrated as Anzac Day in Australia. Every year Australians and New Zealanders would come to Gallipoli to remember those who had fallen in this battle.
The Blue Mosque was the most famous of half a dozen of mosques which lined the shores of Istanbul. We took a tram not far from the cruise terminal and got off about 4 stops passed the Blue Mosque and walked back. We were not disappointed as we entered the first mosque and were amazed at its simplicity and beauty, quite a contrast to the number of statues in a Roman Catholic church! There we saw some Muslim women praying in a separate room from the men. Then we visited a cemetery along the main street and discovered that some of the graves were dated back to the 12th century. There were so much to see that it was passed lunch time when we arrived at the Blue Mosque. There was a call for prayers which meant that the mosque was closed for visitors. We waited for about an hour and went back for our turn in the queue. 
We had already seen a 3-D version from one of the clips on the Blue Mosque but seeing it with our own eyes was something to be experienced. We had to take off our shoes as a sign of respect to Allah as we walked inside. Many of the pilgrims were Muslims so they knelt down and prayed. Outside the mosque there was a marble trough with taps which the pilgrims washed their hands and feet before they went into the mosque. Apparently this was not mandatory as many went in the mosque without this ritual.
There were so much to do in Istanbul and yet there was so little time. The Royal Palace was one which would take a fair bit of time to go through thoroughly. Not far away from the mosque there was a place where one can get a Turkish bath for 30 Euros but we were pressed for time so we didn't try it. Another activity which we would loved to have taken was a 2-hour Bosporus cruise which took tourists under the Bosporus Bridge which strides across from Asia to Europe. Had we opted to do that we would have been delayed by a traffic jam in the CBD and would not be able to get back in time for our cruise. We needed to spend at least 3 more days in this mysterious city, it seemed.
MYKONOS
Back to the Aegean Sea, we were given another taste of Greece. There are 3000 islands in Greece and Mykonos was chosen by many cruise companies because of its central setting in the Aegean Sea. We were told that because of scarcity of building materials, houses had flat roofs and a cubic shape to resist against the strong winds. They were painted in white to cool the high temperature in summer. The buildings and churches have colourful wooden doors, windows and balcony and the paved, narrow, maze-like streets are idyllic Greek. The blue colour of the Aegean and the white-washed buildings make up the colour of the Greek flag. We visited the famous Panagia, better known as the Church of the Virgin Mary which is located right next to the sea. On the other side of the island we visited the only 4 remaining white-washed windmills and took many photos. I went to one of the hotels on the slope and enquired the tariff and was given the price of 35 Euros for an overnight stay. How I wish we could stay a few nights on this idyllic island!
NAPLES
Another day at sea and we arrived Naples on May 4. The last time we visited Naples 18 months ago a party of four of us hired a driver and his Mercedes for the day and did Sorrento, Positano and the Amalfi Coast, so this time we wanted to see Capri, a small island off the Italian coast where rich and famous Europeans built their legendary houses over the centuries. When we arrived the pier, the ferry to Capri had just left so we took the ferry to Sorrento instead. The scenic city looked quite different from the coast and we were stunned by the beautiful hotels and houses built on cliffs. As Sorrento was only a detour we didn't want to miss the main attractions at Capri so we boarded the next ferry to Capri. On the ferry a local guide approached us and talked us into buying a tour of Capri and Anacapri. We did the right thing as we saw some of the breathtaking sights on the island. The roads were crafted on the side of the island on which some of the best mansions were built. The owners of these buildings certainly knew how to enjoy themselves as they spared no expenses. There is a chair lift in Anacapri which gives an overall view of the upper part of the island but we didn't have time to ride in them. We took the funicular down to the ferry just in time to get back to the cruise. It was a tiring day. 
Sorrento near Naples
ROME
Rome was our next port of call. There was a special tourist train at the pier to take tourists to St Peter's station in Rome. Being Wednesday, it was a worshipping day and a chance to see Pope Francis but when we arrived at St Peter's Square, the whole square was packed with pilgrims so we gave up the idea to see the new Pope because going through security check would have taken up to 2 hours.
Directly opposite the Vatican is the Castle of San Angelo which is an iconic symbol of Rome. Flanked by two bridges across the Tiber River where Rome originated, the castle was built by Emperor Pius in 123-139 AD to be used as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and his wife. Later on it was a refuge for Pope Clement VII and his Swiss Guards through a tunnel connected to the Papacy to defend themselves from the often rebellious multitude. There were ancient guns and cannon balls strategically placed on top of the castle walls which looked quite ineffective as a deterrent but must have been impressive in medieval times. I wonder if Pope Francis needs to reconsider the Castle as a place of refuge from the hundreds of thousands of prilgrims who flocked to see him twice a week at St Peter's Square but these days he will need to have the consent of the Italian Government since the Castle is now no longer part of the Papacy.
Across the bridge from the Castle within walking distance is another building of great antiquity, the Pantheon of the gods. With a uniquely rounded brick surround and an open dome which allows rain to enter and fall to the floor where it is carried away through drains. The Pantheon is one of the oldest structures in Rome which rivals the Coliseum as another icon of Rome. Built in 27 BC, the building was dedicated to "all gods" as a gesture embracing the increasingly multicultural Roman Empire, with subjects worshipping gods from many cultures and traditions. Under Pope Boniface IV in 609, it was later renovated for use as a Christian church. Today we see Jesus on a crucifix flanked by saints arranged in a symmetrical circle.
Not far away from the Pantheon is Narvona, a basilica with two awesome and symmetrical fountains in front of the square. While people love to pose for photos by the fountains, they often missed visiting the basilica of Narvona even though there is no charge for admission. I would recommend the Narvona basilica as a must-see for its religious symbolism and the 3-D features of all its statues on walls and ceilings. A note of warning is that there is no photography or video permitted. The same rule of no photography applies to wall and ceiling paintings at the Castle of San Angelo.
It was a hectic day in Rome for Magdalen so when we arrived Livorno the next day, we stayed in the ship and relaxed around the pool and spa. Florence and Pisa were only a couple of hours of train journeys away from the port but we saved our energies for the following day when we arrived the naval port of Toulon in France.
MARSEILLES
The ship had scheduled an excursion to Marseilles and Aix En Provence. The scenic drive to Marseilles took 2 hours. It is the second largest city in France as well as its most famous fishing port. The tourist bus drove all the way 500 ft to the top of the hill where Notre Dame de la Garde overlooked the city. It was built in 1214 and restored in the 15th century. An extensive restoration took place from 2001 to 2008, including work on the mosaics that were damaged by candle smoke and the impact of bullets during the Liberation of France at the end of World War II. We spent about an hour in Marseilles to get a feel for the fishing port and then left for Aix En Provence.
AIX-EN-PROVENCE
It was a short drive to this medieval town with the city wall dividing the town into two sections. The Cathedral of the Holy Saviour is situated to the north in the medieval part of Aix. Built on the site of a former Roman forum and an adjacent basilica, it contains a mixture of all styles from the 5th to the 17th century, including a richly decorated portal in the Gothic style with doors elaborately carved in walnut. Its Renaissance dome was supported by original Roman columns. At its side rises a handsome clock-tower erected in 1510. We posed for photos at the fountain beneath three giant statues representing art, justice and agriculture as well as fountains in the older part of Aix before we drove back to Toulon.
A 40th WEDDING ANNIVERSARY
The final leg of our 12-night Mediterranean cruise to Barcelona was rough. We survived our last dinner celebrating our 40th wedding Anniversary together with a newly-wed Italian couple in the rough sea although the sea was so bumpy that the younger couple had to withdraw from the celebration dinner due to sea-sickness. Rather than worrying if Magdalen also had caught the sea-sickness, we went to see the last show of the cruise. It was a circus performance by a man and a woman. With ship tipping from one side to the other it was quite amazing that they could balance themselves while standing on a ladder doing juggling acts. All in all we enjoyed the 12-night Grand-Mediterranean cruise on board the Norwegian cruise. In fact we enjoyed the experience so much that we put a deposit for another one within the next 4 years.
----By Philip Lee